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Pilgrimleave on

Red Vine Anti-Ageing Serum

Good

Red Vine Anti-Ageing Serum

Anti-ageing, fine lines, wrinkles, dullness

INCI VerifiedFragrance-FreeParaben-FreeCruelty-Free (PETA)Combination SkinAzo Dye (CI 16035) - No Functional BenefitRetinyl Palmitate is Milder Than RetinolPolyphenol Antioxidant Formula
14
Safe
2
Note
1
Caution
Rs. 499 - Rs. 799Analysed 20 May 2026
Red Vine Anti-Ageing Serum
Key Actives
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract
Proanthocyanidin polyphenols, antioxidant and free radical quenching, mild collagen support
Resveratrol
Stilbenoid polyphenol from grape skin, SIRT1 pathway antioxidant, in-vitro anti-ageing signalling
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3, barrier support, anti-inflammatory, mild brightening at supporting concentration
Retinyl Palmitate
Mild retinoid ester, requires two enzymatic conversions to reach active retinoic acid; low irritation risk but significantly less potent than retinol
Expert Summary

An anti-ageing serum built around Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract and Resveratrol (a polyphenol from grape skin) as the hero antioxidants, combined with Niacinamide for barrier support and Retinyl Palmitate as a mild retinoid. Key concern: CI 16035 (Allura Red AC / Red 40) is an azo dye with a sensitisation profile. In a leave-on anti-ageing serum, a cosmetic dye adds no functional benefit and introduces unnecessary allergen exposure, particularly for reactive skin. The red colour is purely aesthetic.

Score Breakdown
81/100 points
Safety & ToxicityExcellent

There is no synthetic fragrance in this serum. CI 16035 (Allura Red AC / Red 40) is an azo dye approved for cosmetic use in the EU, but it is a known contact allergen for some individuals. In a leave-on anti-ageing serum it serves only as a colourant with no skin benefit - its inclusion increases sensitisation risk without adding anything useful. Retinyl Palmitate is a mild retinoid ester that carries a much lower irritation risk than retinol, but it is also considerably less effective because it must undergo two enzymatic conversions before reaching its active retinoic acid form. There is also a recognised concern about Retinyl Palmitate generating reactive oxygen species when skin is exposed to UV light, which Pilgrim does not address in product communications.

Formulation Quality & EfficacyStrong

Resveratrol is a polyphenol with in-vitro evidence for antioxidant activity and anti-ageing signalling via the SIRT1 pathway. Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract provides proanthocyanidin antioxidant support from grape seeds. Niacinamide contributes barrier repair and anti-inflammatory benefit at a supporting concentration. Retinyl Palmitate is the weakest form of vitamin A used in skincare - it must be converted by enzymes in the skin through two intermediate steps before reaching the active retinoic acid form, which makes it substantially less effective than retinol at an equivalent position in the formula. For a product marketed as an anti-ageing serum, this is a meaningful efficacy gap. CI 16035 adds colour and nothing else.

Ingredient Disclosure & TransparencyStrong

The full INCI list is published on the product page. Active concentrations for Resveratrol, Grape Seed Extract, Niacinamide, and Retinyl Palmitate are not disclosed. CI 16035 is not identified on the product page as a cosmetic dye serving no skin function. The marketing does not distinguish between Retinyl Palmitate (a retinoid ester) and Retinol - these are not the same ingredient and do not deliver the same results, but a consumer reading the product description would not know that. No clinical study data has been published for this formula.

Ethics & SustainabilityGood

Pilgrim is PETA-certified cruelty-free and the formula is vegan. The brand does not sell into markets that require mandatory animal testing. There is no synthetic fragrance. CI 16035 is a synthetic azo dye with no natural origin. Grape-derived ingredients (Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Resveratrol) raise the natural origin proportion of the formula meaningfully. Palm derivative sourcing has not been independently verified against RSPO or equivalent standards.

🇮🇳
India Skin Context

Resveratrol and grape polyphenols are a credible antioxidant platform for anti-ageing, particularly relevant in India where chronic UV exposure accelerates extrinsic ageing across Fitzpatrick III-V tones. The formula's Retinyl Palmitate is too mild to deliver meaningful retinoid anti-ageing benefit but avoids the retinol irritation and pregnancy contraindication. If primary concern is anti-ageing, consider a product with Retinol or Bakuchiol for stronger retinoid-class activity. The synthetic red dye serves no skin benefit - if you have reactive or sensitive skin, this product's azo dye may be an unnecessary irritation risk.

Full Ingredient List
Safe Note Caution
IngredientNoteStatus
Aqua
Solvent baseSafe
Propanediol
Plant-derived humectant and solventSafe
Glycerin
HumectantSafe
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract
Proanthocyanidin antioxidant, free radical quenching, mild collagen supportSafe
Resveratrol
Polyphenol from grape skin; SIRT1 pathway antioxidant; position indicates functional but not dominant concentrationSafe
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3, barrier and anti-inflammatory support at secondary positionSafe
Sodium Hyaluronate
HA salt for hydrationSafe
Retinyl Palmitate
Mild retinoid ester; requires two enzymatic conversions to reach active retinoic acid; significantly less potent than retinol at cosmetic positionsNote
Tocopherol
Vitamin E, lipid-phase antioxidant synergistic with resveratrolSafe
Panthenol
Pro-vitamin B5, barrier restoration and humectantSafe
Allantoin
Soothing and skin-repairingSafe
CI 16035
Allura Red AC (Red 40), azo dye; no functional role in a leave-on serum; contact allergen in sensitised individuals; purely aesthetic colourantCaution
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Natural-derived polymer thickenerSafe
Carbomer
Synthetic polymer gel-formerSafe
Sodium Hydroxide
pH adjuster, trace quantitySafe
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative within EU/India 1% limitNote
Ethylhexylglycerin
Preservative booster, very low concernSafe

Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).

About this scorecard

Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.

The Clean Sheet does not use fear-based ingredient labels. We assess products through a structured evidence hierarchy:

  • What global regulations say
  • What toxicology says
  • What the formula concentration shows
  • What the product format changes
  • What the intended user needs
  • What testing evidence proves
  • What the brand is claiming
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