10% Vitamin C Serum with Ferulic Acid
Good10% Vitamin C Serum with Ferulic Acid
Brightening, antioxidant protection, uneven tone

A multi-form vitamin C serum using 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (ethylated, stable derivative) as the primary source, supported by Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (lipophilic vitamin C ester…

A multi-form vitamin C serum using 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (ethylated, stable derivative) as the primary source, supported by Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (lipophilic vitamin C ester) for synergistic action. Ferulic Acid and Tocopherol (Vitamin E) follow the classic Phloretin CF / CE Ferulic antioxidant triad logic. However, two formulation concerns are identified: (1) Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether (Ethoxydiglycol/Transcutol) at position 5 is a confirmed chemical penetration enhancer (CPE) used to boost vitamin C skin penetration, which simultaneously increases systemic exposure potential for all co-formulated actives; (2) 'Vegetable Oil' is listed - not a valid INCI name, constituting an INCI disclosure failure under EU 1223/2009 Article 19 and Indian CDSCO labelling rules.
Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether (also known as Ethoxydiglycol or Transcutol) appears at position 5 in this formula. It is a confirmed chemical penetration enhancer — meaning it increases how deeply all co-formulated actives penetrate the skin, not just the vitamin C. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) classifies CPEs as requiring additional safety consideration because they amplify systemic exposure of everything they are paired with. Both 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid are individually safe and well-studied; the consideration here is their increased bioavailability when combined with a CPE in daily facial application. Sodium Benzoate is used as a preservative: it is effective at pH below 4.2, which is also the pH range this formula should be at for the vitamin C to remain stable. If the formula pH drifts higher, both preservative efficacy and vitamin C stability are affected. All other actives comply with EU and India regulations.
The antioxidant strategy here is well-designed: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid plus Ferulic Acid plus Tocopherol (Vitamin E) mirrors the logic of the classic CE Ferulic combination documented in Pinnell's 2005 research, where Ferulic Acid was shown to double the photoprotective efficacy of Vitamins C and E together. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate adds a lipophilic vitamin C form that penetrates the sebaceous layer — useful for oil-rich skin where aqueous actives can struggle to absorb. Houttuynia Cordata (Heartleaf) extract adds tyrosinase-inhibiting flavonoids. Camellia Sinensis leaf extract contributes EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), a polyphenol antioxidant. Sodium Phytate sequesters iron and copper ions that would otherwise catalyse oxidation of the vitamin C derivatives, protecting formula stability. One ingredient listed as 'Vegetable Oil' is not a valid INCI name — this makes it impossible to properly assess the fatty acid profile, comedogenicity, or allergen risk of that ingredient.
One ingredient is listed as 'Vegetable Oil' — this is not a valid INCI name. EU Regulation 1223/2009 Article 19 and India CDSCO labelling rules require all ingredients to be listed using standardised INCI nomenclature. 'Vegetable Oil' could refer to any of hundreds of botanicals with very different fatty acid profiles, comedogenicity ratings, and allergen potentials. Without knowing what the oil actually is, it cannot be properly assessed. The brand correctly identifies 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid by name, which is a transparency positive. However, the concentrations of the vitamin C derivative and Ferulic Acid are not disclosed. No clinical study reports have been published.
Cruelty-free brand. Ethoxydiglycol is a synthetic petrochemical-derived ingredient. The 'Vegetable Oil' listing means its sourcing, palm content, and sustainability status cannot be verified at all — there is simply no way to assess environmental impact without knowing what the oil is. Sodium Metabisulphite is an antioxidant stabiliser for the formula with minor environmental processing considerations.
A multi-form Vitamin C approach is smart for India's climate: the ethylated 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is more stable than pure L-ascorbic acid in the heat and humidity, while the lipophilic Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate penetrates the sebum-rich skin surface common in Indian skin types. The Ferulic Acid combination doubles UV photoprotection - important in a country where daily SPF application is underutilised. Use at night if not pairing with a high-SPF sunscreen. The Ethoxydiglycol CPE means this serum should not be layered under formulas containing potential sensitisers on sensitive skin types.
| Ingredient | Note | Status |
|---|---|---|
Purified Water | Solvent base | Safe |
Propanediol | Plant-derived humectant and solvent, low sensitisation risk | Safe |
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Ethylated stable Vitamin C; brand states 10%. Converts enzymatically to ascorbic acid in viable epidermis | Safe |
Houttuynia Cordata (Heartleaf) Extract | Traditional East Asian botanical; tyrosinase-inhibiting flavonoids, anti-inflammatory | Safe |
Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether | Ethoxydiglycol (Transcutol) - confirmed chemical penetration enhancer (CPE). Increases systemic absorption of all co-formulated actives. Listed at position 5 suggesting >1% concentration | Caution |
Ferulic Acid | Photostabilises and doubles efficacy of co-formulated Vitamins C+E. Must be below pH 4 to remain stable | Safe |
Tocophersolan (Vitamin E) | PEGylated water-soluble Vitamin E (INCI: Tocophersolan). Synergistic antioxidant; membrane photoprotective | Safe |
Sodium Hyaluronate | High-MW HA salt; surface moisture film | Safe |
Allantoin | Soothing and skin-conditioning; buffers potential irritation from low-pH vitamin C environment | Safe |
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (EGCG) | Green tea EGCG; catechin polyphenol antioxidant with anti-inflammatory and UV-mitigation properties | Safe |
Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) | Mitochondrial co-factor antioxidant; regenerates oxidised tocopherol (Vitamin E) in skin | Safe |
Glycerin | Humectant, barrier-supportive | Safe |
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane | Silicone-PEG emollient and texture modifier, improves spreadability | Safe |
Sodium Phytate | Chelating agent; sequesters metal ions (Fe2+, Cu2+) that catalyse ascorbic acid oxidation, extending formula stability | Safe |
Lecithin | Phospholipid emulsifier/penetration aid, skin-compatible | Safe |
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate | Oil-soluble lipophilic Vitamin C ester; penetrates sebaceous layer. Synergistic brightening with 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Safe |
Tocopherol | Fat-soluble Vitamin E; antioxidant membrane stabiliser | Safe |
Sodium Metabisulphite | Antioxidant stabiliser preventing oxidation of ascorbic acid derivatives during storage | Safe |
Sodium Benzoate | Preservative; effective only below pH 4.2 (pKa of benzoic acid). Appropriate for a Vitamin C serum if pH is maintained below 4.2 | Note |
Hydroxyethylcellulose | Natural-derived polymer thickener for gel texture | Safe |
Vegetable Oil | Non-INCI name - this is an INCI disclosure failure. EU 1223/2009 and India CDSCO labelling rules require the specific oil to be named. No assessment of fatty acid profile, comedogenicity, or allergen risk possible | Caution |
Disodium Ethylenediaminetetraacetate | EDTA chelator; sequesters metal ions to support preservative efficacy and formula stability | Safe |
Phenoxyethanol | Preservative; late-list position confirms concentration within EU/India 1% limit | Note |
Ethylhexylglycerin | Preservative booster, low concern at cosmetic concentrations | Safe |
Citric Acid | pH adjuster, maintains low pH environment required for Vitamin C and Ferulic Acid stability | Safe |
Sodium Hydroxide | pH adjuster (trace quantity) | Safe |
Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).
Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.
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- What the intended user needs
- What testing evidence proves
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