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Acne Defence Daily Serum

Good

Acne Defence Daily Serum

Active acne, oiliness, post-acne hyperpigmentation, clogged pores

INCI VerifiedFragrance-FreeParaben-FreeCruelty-FreeTEA Undermines SA EfficacyNitrosamine Risk (TEA)Azelaic + Niacinamide ActiveAnti-PIH Support
13
Safe
1
Note
2
Caution
Rs. 549 - Rs. 849Analysed 19 May 2026
Acne Defence Daily Serum
Key Actives
Azelaic Acid
Anti-bacterial (P. acnes), anti-keratinisation (unclogs follicles), tyrosinase inhibitor (anti-PIH). Position 3 confirms meaningful dose
Salicylic Acid
Lipophilic BHA that penetrates sebaceous follicles; keratolytic at pH 3-4. Efficacy limited by formula pH (see formulation note)
Niacinamide
Anti-inflammatory (reduces IL-6 and IL-8), sebum-regulating, inhibits melanosome transfer for PIH reduction
Centella Asiatica Extract
Madecassoside and asiaticoside; wound-healing, anti-inflammatory, supports barrier after active-driven irritation
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract
Diluted extract form; anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties without pure-oil sensitisation risk
Expert Summary

An acne-targeted serum combining Azelaic Acid (multi-mechanism: anti-bacterial, anti-keratinisation, anti-pigmentation), Salicylic Acid (lipophilic BHA exfoliant, penetrates follicles), and Niacinamide (anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating). However, the presence of Triethanolamine at position 5 - before both Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide in the INCI order - is a significant formulation concern. TEA is a strong base (pH raises to 8-9 in excess); at meaningful concentration it elevates formula pH into the 5-7 range, well above the pH 3-4 required for Salicylic Acid's keratolytic mechanism. Azelaic Acid and Tea Tree Leaf Extract also perform best below pH 5. This pH conflict materially undermines the stated BHA exfoliation claim.

Score Breakdown
74/100 points
Safety & ToxicityExcellent

All ingredients comply with EU Regulation 1223/2009 and India CDSCO cosmetics regulations. Salicylic Acid is permitted in leave-on facial products in both the EU and India. Triethanolamine (TEA) appears at position 5 in the ingredient list, indicating a meaningful concentration. When TEA is present in leave-on products alongside nitrogen-containing ingredients such as Niacinamide, there is a documented risk of nitrosamine formation during storage — EU Regulation 1223/2009 Annex III limits TEA use for this reason and requires nitrosamine levels to be controlled during manufacture. Tea Tree Leaf Extract (used here in extract form, not as pure essential oil) is considerably more diluted than neat tea tree oil and poses a low sensitisation risk at typical extract concentrations. No synthetic fragrance, no parabens, no azo dyes.

Formulation Quality & EfficacyGood

There is a significant pH conflict in this formula that affects the BHA exfoliation claim. Salicylic Acid's keratolytic mechanism — dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells and clearing pores — requires a formula pH of around 3.0 to 4.0. Efficacy drops sharply above pH 4.5 and is essentially lost above pH 5. Triethanolamine, which appears at position 5 (before salicylic acid), is a strong alkalising agent. Its early and meaningful position in the ingredient list strongly suggests the formula pH is at or above pH 5, which would render the Salicylic Acid largely inactive as a pore-clearing exfoliant. Azelaic Acid at position 3 has a wider effective pH range (approximately 4-5) and is the formula's primary working active, along with Niacinamide, which maintains its anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating function across the pH 3-7 range. Tea Tree Leaf Extract also retains antimicrobial benefit at higher pH. In practice, this serum's value comes from Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide, not from BHA exfoliation.

Ingredient Disclosure & TransparencyGood

The ingredient list uses correct INCI nomenclature throughout and is verified on the brand website. Active concentrations are not disclosed. The brand markets Salicylic Acid as a key BHA exfoliating active, but the formula's pH environment — created by Triethanolamine at a meaningful early position — very likely prevents the keratolytic mechanism from functioning. Describing this as BHA exfoliation without disclosing that context may not meet the substantiation standards set out in EU claims regulation (EC) No 655/2013. No clinical data has been published for this formula. 1,2-Hexanediol and Pentylene Glycol are listed without context — they function as mild preservative boosters and humectants.

Ethics & SustainabilityStrong

Cruelty-free. Short ingredient list with recognisable, well-documented ingredients. No synthetic fragrance, no parabens, no azo dyes. Triethanolamine is a synthetic petrochemical-derived amine. Xanthan Gum is a fermentation-derived biopolymer with low environmental impact.

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India Skin Context

Acne with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is the most common skin complaint across Indian skin types (Fitzpatrick III-VI). Azelaic Acid at a meaningful concentration is the real workhorse here - it simultaneously fights P. acnes bacteria, prevents keratin build-up in follicles, and inhibits melanin production in PIH lesions. Niacinamide's anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating action adds complementary benefit. Be aware that the Salicylic Acid BHA exfoliation benefit is likely limited by the formula's pH environment. For high-pH conditions (humid Indian summers, oily skin types), Azelaic Acid performs more reliably than pH-sensitive BHAs.

Full Ingredient List
Safe Note Caution
IngredientNoteStatus
Aqua (Water)
Solvent baseSafe
Propanediol
Plant-derived humectant and solventSafe
Azelaic Acid
Anti-bacterial, anti-keratinisation, and anti-pigmentation active. Position 3 indicates functional dose. Optimal efficacy at pH 4-5Safe
Centella Asiatica (Cica) Extract
Soothing anti-inflammatory; wound-healing support for active-driven skin compromiseSafe
Triethanolamine
Strong alkalising pH adjuster at position 5 (meaningful concentration). Raises formula pH significantly, undermining Salicylic Acid's pH-dependent keratolytic mechanism. Nitrosamine formation risk with amine co-ingredients requires monitoringCaution
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3; stable 3-7 pH range, retains anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating benefits despite high formula pHSafe
1,2-Hexanediol
Mild preservative booster and humectant; low sensitisation riskSafe
Pentylene Glycol
Humectant and mild preservative booster, skin-compatibleSafe
Salicylic Acid
BHA exfoliant at position 9. Effective keratolysis requires pH 3.0-4.0; at the elevated pH created by TEA (position 5), SA function is significantly compromisedCaution
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract
Extract form (not pure EO); anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory at well-tolerated concentrationsSafe
Sodium Gluconate
Chelating agent; enhances preservative system efficacySafe
Xanthan Gum
Fermentation-derived biopolymer thickenerSafe
Sodium Citrate
Buffer salt, pH stabiliserSafe
Sodium Hydroxide
pH adjuster (trace)Safe
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative; late-list position confirms well within EU/India 1% limitNote
Ethylhexylglycerin
Preservative booster, low concernSafe

Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).

About this scorecard

Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.

The Clean Sheet does not use fear-based ingredient labels. We assess products through a structured evidence hierarchy:

  • What global regulations say
  • What toxicology says
  • What the formula concentration shows
  • What the product format changes
  • What the intended user needs
  • What testing evidence proves
  • What the brand is claiming
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