Acne Defence Daily Serum
GoodAcne Defence Daily Serum
Active acne, oiliness, post-acne hyperpigmentation, clogged pores

An acne-targeted serum combining Azelaic Acid (multi-mechanism: anti-bacterial, anti-keratinisation, anti-pigmentation), Salicylic Acid (lipophilic BHA exfoliant, penetrates follic…

An acne-targeted serum combining Azelaic Acid (multi-mechanism: anti-bacterial, anti-keratinisation, anti-pigmentation), Salicylic Acid (lipophilic BHA exfoliant, penetrates follicles), and Niacinamide (anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating). However, the presence of Triethanolamine at position 5 - before both Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide in the INCI order - is a significant formulation concern. TEA is a strong base (pH raises to 8-9 in excess); at meaningful concentration it elevates formula pH into the 5-7 range, well above the pH 3-4 required for Salicylic Acid's keratolytic mechanism. Azelaic Acid and Tea Tree Leaf Extract also perform best below pH 5. This pH conflict materially undermines the stated BHA exfoliation claim.
All ingredients comply with EU Regulation 1223/2009 and India CDSCO cosmetics regulations. Salicylic Acid is permitted in leave-on facial products in both the EU and India. Triethanolamine (TEA) appears at position 5 in the ingredient list, indicating a meaningful concentration. When TEA is present in leave-on products alongside nitrogen-containing ingredients such as Niacinamide, there is a documented risk of nitrosamine formation during storage — EU Regulation 1223/2009 Annex III limits TEA use for this reason and requires nitrosamine levels to be controlled during manufacture. Tea Tree Leaf Extract (used here in extract form, not as pure essential oil) is considerably more diluted than neat tea tree oil and poses a low sensitisation risk at typical extract concentrations. No synthetic fragrance, no parabens, no azo dyes.
There is a significant pH conflict in this formula that affects the BHA exfoliation claim. Salicylic Acid's keratolytic mechanism — dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells and clearing pores — requires a formula pH of around 3.0 to 4.0. Efficacy drops sharply above pH 4.5 and is essentially lost above pH 5. Triethanolamine, which appears at position 5 (before salicylic acid), is a strong alkalising agent. Its early and meaningful position in the ingredient list strongly suggests the formula pH is at or above pH 5, which would render the Salicylic Acid largely inactive as a pore-clearing exfoliant. Azelaic Acid at position 3 has a wider effective pH range (approximately 4-5) and is the formula's primary working active, along with Niacinamide, which maintains its anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating function across the pH 3-7 range. Tea Tree Leaf Extract also retains antimicrobial benefit at higher pH. In practice, this serum's value comes from Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide, not from BHA exfoliation.
The ingredient list uses correct INCI nomenclature throughout and is verified on the brand website. Active concentrations are not disclosed. The brand markets Salicylic Acid as a key BHA exfoliating active, but the formula's pH environment — created by Triethanolamine at a meaningful early position — very likely prevents the keratolytic mechanism from functioning. Describing this as BHA exfoliation without disclosing that context may not meet the substantiation standards set out in EU claims regulation (EC) No 655/2013. No clinical data has been published for this formula. 1,2-Hexanediol and Pentylene Glycol are listed without context — they function as mild preservative boosters and humectants.
Cruelty-free. Short ingredient list with recognisable, well-documented ingredients. No synthetic fragrance, no parabens, no azo dyes. Triethanolamine is a synthetic petrochemical-derived amine. Xanthan Gum is a fermentation-derived biopolymer with low environmental impact.
Acne with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is the most common skin complaint across Indian skin types (Fitzpatrick III-VI). Azelaic Acid at a meaningful concentration is the real workhorse here - it simultaneously fights P. acnes bacteria, prevents keratin build-up in follicles, and inhibits melanin production in PIH lesions. Niacinamide's anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating action adds complementary benefit. Be aware that the Salicylic Acid BHA exfoliation benefit is likely limited by the formula's pH environment. For high-pH conditions (humid Indian summers, oily skin types), Azelaic Acid performs more reliably than pH-sensitive BHAs.
| Ingredient | Note | Status |
|---|---|---|
Aqua (Water) | Solvent base | Safe |
Propanediol | Plant-derived humectant and solvent | Safe |
Azelaic Acid | Anti-bacterial, anti-keratinisation, and anti-pigmentation active. Position 3 indicates functional dose. Optimal efficacy at pH 4-5 | Safe |
Centella Asiatica (Cica) Extract | Soothing anti-inflammatory; wound-healing support for active-driven skin compromise | Safe |
Triethanolamine | Strong alkalising pH adjuster at position 5 (meaningful concentration). Raises formula pH significantly, undermining Salicylic Acid's pH-dependent keratolytic mechanism. Nitrosamine formation risk with amine co-ingredients requires monitoring | Caution |
Niacinamide | Vitamin B3; stable 3-7 pH range, retains anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating benefits despite high formula pH | Safe |
1,2-Hexanediol | Mild preservative booster and humectant; low sensitisation risk | Safe |
Pentylene Glycol | Humectant and mild preservative booster, skin-compatible | Safe |
Salicylic Acid | BHA exfoliant at position 9. Effective keratolysis requires pH 3.0-4.0; at the elevated pH created by TEA (position 5), SA function is significantly compromised | Caution |
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract | Extract form (not pure EO); anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory at well-tolerated concentrations | Safe |
Sodium Gluconate | Chelating agent; enhances preservative system efficacy | Safe |
Xanthan Gum | Fermentation-derived biopolymer thickener | Safe |
Sodium Citrate | Buffer salt, pH stabiliser | Safe |
Sodium Hydroxide | pH adjuster (trace) | Safe |
Phenoxyethanol | Preservative; late-list position confirms well within EU/India 1% limit | Note |
Ethylhexylglycerin | Preservative booster, low concern | Safe |
Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).
Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.
The Clean Sheet does not use fear-based ingredient labels. We assess products through a structured evidence hierarchy:
- What global regulations say
- What toxicology says
- What the formula concentration shows
- What the product format changes
- What the intended user needs
- What testing evidence proves
- What the brand is claiming