Red Vine + Retinol Night Gel Creme
ConcernRed Vine + Retinol Night Gel Creme
Anti-ageing, fine lines, overnight renewal

A retinol-positioning night cream combining Vitis Vinifera extracts with Retinol as the active retinoid. Significant concerns: Parfum (synthetic fragrance compound mixture) is pres…

A retinol-positioning night cream combining Vitis Vinifera extracts with Retinol as the active retinoid. Significant concerns: Parfum (synthetic fragrance compound mixture) is present in a leave-on retinol product - retinol already increases skin sensitivity and inflammation risk, and fragrance allergens compound that over 8+ hours of overnight contact. Additionally, two azo dyes (CI 16035 and CI 45380) are present as cosmetic colourants with no functional benefit, adding unnecessary allergen load to a leave-on night treatment. Retinol concentration is undisclosed. The combination of Parfum, dual azo dyes, and undisclosed-concentration retinol in an overnight leave-on format represents a significant formulation concern.
Parfum (synthetic fragrance blend) is present in a leave-on retinol product that sits on skin for 8 or more hours overnight. Retinol increases skin permeability, which means fragrance allergens penetrate more deeply and remain in contact with skin longer than in a rinse-off or fragrance-free product. Parfum is a single entry that can contain hundreds of individual compounds; EU Regulation 1223/2009 Annex III requires that individual fragrance allergens present above 0.001% in leave-on products be named separately. Listing only 'Parfum' does not meet that disclosure standard. CI 16035 (Allura Red azo dye) and CI 45380 (a fluorescein derivative dye) are both contact allergens with no therapeutic function in a retinol night treatment. The retinol concentration is not disclosed; below about 0.025%, retinol is generally considered sub-functional, which would make the retinoid claim difficult to substantiate. Dimethicone and Cetearyl Alcohol are well-tolerated emollients with no safety concerns.
Retinol is the most robustly evidenced retinoid for stimulating collagen, reducing fine lines, and accelerating cell turnover. The gel-creme base with Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, and Dimethicone provides suitable emollient and occlusive support for overnight use. The undisclosed retinol concentration is a significant gap: without knowing the dose, there is no way to assess whether the retinoid is present at a level that can deliver the anti-ageing results the product claims. Parfum introduces an inflammatory risk that compounds over the full overnight contact period, working against the skin renewal retinol is intended to support. The two azo dyes add no formulation benefit.
The full INCI list is published on the product page. Retinol concentration is not disclosed - this is the most important number in this product, and without it consumers cannot judge whether the retinoid is present at a dose that does anything meaningful. Parfum is listed as a single entry without a breakdown of individual allergen components, which does not meet the EU Regulation 1223/2009 Annex III requirement for named allergen disclosure in leave-on products. The two azo dyes are present with no explanation of their role in product marketing. The product does not carry a pregnancy warning, despite containing a retinoid ingredient - retinoids are universally contraindicated during pregnancy. No clinical study data has been published for this formula.
Pilgrim is PETA-certified cruelty-free. The brand does not sell into markets that require mandatory animal testing. Parfum and two synthetic azo dyes all appear on the COSMOS prohibited ingredients list, meaning this product would not qualify for any natural cosmetics certification. Dimethicone (silicone) is similarly COSMOS-prohibited. The formula has not been verified as vegan due to ingredient complexity.
Retinol is the gold standard topical for anti-ageing across all skin tones and is particularly valuable for Fitzpatrick III-V tones in India where photodamage, melasma, and PIH co-exist. However, retinol already increases skin sensitivity - adding synthetic fragrance and two cosmetic dyes to a night treatment that remains on skin for 8+ hours creates a cumulative sensitisation environment that works against the product's own goals. Indian consumers seeking a reliable retinol night product should look for fragrance-free, dye-free formulas with disclosed retinol concentrations. Not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Avoid if you have sensitive, eczema-prone, or rosacea-affected skin.
| Ingredient | Note | Status |
|---|---|---|
Aqua | Solvent base | Safe |
Glycerin | Humectant | Safe |
Propanediol | Plant-derived humectant and solvent | Safe |
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract | Proanthocyanidin antioxidant | Safe |
Retinol | Vitamin A alcohol, effective retinoid; concentration undisclosed by brand - sub-0.025% concentration would be sub-functional | Note |
Resveratrol | Polyphenol from grape skin, antioxidant | Safe |
Niacinamide | Vitamin B3, barrier support and anti-inflammatory; helps offset retinol-induced sensitivity | Safe |
Sodium Hyaluronate | HA salt for overnight hydration | Safe |
Butylene Glycol | Humectant and solvent, low concern | Safe |
Cetearyl Alcohol | Fatty alcohol emollient, emulsifier component; appropriate for night cream vehicle | Safe |
Cetearyl Glucoside | Sugar-derived emulsifier, well-tolerated | Safe |
Dimethicone | Silicone occlusive, supports overnight moisture retention; COSMOS-prohibited but not a safety concern | Safe |
Parfum | Synthetic fragrance mixture in a leave-on retinol night product; retinol increases skin permeability, amplifying allergen exposure over 8+ hour contact; EU Annex III individual allergen disclosure requirement not met by a single 'Parfum' entry | Caution |
CI 16035 | Allura Red AC azo dye, no functional benefit in a leave-on product, contact allergen in sensitised individuals | Caution |
CI 45380 | Fluorescein derivative dye, no functional benefit in leave-on, additional allergen load compounding retinol sensitisation risk | Caution |
Phenoxyethanol | Preservative within EU/India 1% limit | Note |
Ethylhexylglycerin | Preservative booster, very low concern | Safe |
Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).
Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.
The Clean Sheet does not use fear-based ingredient labels. We assess products through a structured evidence hierarchy:
- What global regulations say
- What toxicology says
- What the formula concentration shows
- What the product format changes
- What the intended user needs
- What testing evidence proves
- What the brand is claiming