PLUMSerums

1% Retinol & Bakuchiol Face Serum

The '1% Retinol' product name is a misleading claim - the formula contains Retinyl Palmitate, a significantly weaker retinoid ester, and Bakuchi Oil carries undisclosed phototoxic risk from psoralens in the whole seed oil.

Fair

Best for

Skincare beginners

Avoid if

Using other actives or daytime without SPF
Pregnant or trying to conceive

Rs. 671 - Rs. 790 • Analysed 10 June 2026

India Context

Retinoids require particular caution in India's high-UV environment. The phototoxic psoralens in Bakuchi Oil make strict night-only use essential. Retinyl Palmitate's lower potency means results will be slower than with retinol or retinaldehyde products. For Indian skin tones (Fitzpatrick III-VI) beginning retinoid use, starting 2 nights per week is advisable. Do not use during pregnancy.

Key Ingredients

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice•Sucrose•PropanediolView all ingredients

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Ingredient & Safety

Formula Logic

Public Claim Support

Transparency

Consumer Clarity

This is a web evidence review, not a Clean Sheet certification. We checked the ingredient list, publicly available test reports, marketing claims, and formula logic using only public information available at the time of review.

At a glance

✗Fragrance free

✓Alcohol free

✓Paraben free

✓Vegan

What was checked

Each claim checked against publicly available evidence: published test reports, the ingredient list, and regulatory data.

1% RetinolNot found

INCI list shows Retinyl Palmitate, not Retinol. These are different ingredients with different potency. The product name is a misleading claim.

Not found

Bakuchiol (retinol alternative)Needs context

The formula uses Bakuchi Oil (whole seed oil), not isolated Bakuchiol. Bakuchi Oil contains phototoxic psoralens not present in isolated Bakuchiol.

Brand claim

Anti-aging / reduces wrinklesNeeds context

Retinoid mechanism for cell turnover is established but Retinyl Palmitate is significantly weaker than Retinol per equivalent dose. No formula-specific study published.

Brand claim

Verified: confirmed from public evidenceSupported: consistent with available evidenceNeeds context: relevant for some usersNot verified: could not be confirmed

Score breakdown

Needs proof

Public Evidence Score across 5 pillars. Open any row for the full rationale.

Ingredient Safety

Strong25/30

Psoralea Corylifolia (Bakuchi) Oil is the whole seed oil from the Bakuchi plant, not isolated Bakuchiol.

Psoralea Corylifolia (Bakuchi) Oil is the whole seed oil from the Bakuchi plant, not isolated Bakuchiol. The whole oil contains psoralens, compounds that cause photosensitisation and can produce severe burning, blistering, and long-lasting dark marks when skin is subsequently exposed to UV. The SCCS has expressed concern about Psoralea corylifolia extracts in leave-on cosmetics. This risk is material and is not communicated on the product. Benzyl Alcohol functions as both a preservative and a fragrance allergen in this leave-on treatment. No synthetic Parfum is added. Retinyl Palmitate, though safe, requires night-only use as a vitamin A derivative.

Formula Logic

Fair14/25

The formula contains Retinyl Palmitate, not Retinol.

The formula contains Retinyl Palmitate, not Retinol. Retinyl Palmitate requires three enzymatic conversions to reach retinoic acid, versus two for Retinol, and each conversion step loses potency. The same percentage of Retinyl Palmitate delivers considerably less retinoid activity than Retinol. Separately, Bakuchi Oil contains Bakuchiol alongside phototoxic psoralens. The two concerns overlap: a retinoid formula used at night that also contains phototoxic furanocoumarins creates a compounded photosensitivity risk. There is no Niacinamide included to manage irritation, which is standard practice in retinoid formulas.

Claims Evidence

Concern8/25

The product name '1% Retinol' is not supported by the INCI list, which shows Retinyl Palmitate.

The product name '1% Retinol' is not supported by the INCI list, which shows Retinyl Palmitate. For most consumers, retinol and retinyl palmitate are not interchangeable. Marketing a product as retinol when the formula contains its weaker ester is a misleading claim. The phototoxic risk from Bakuchi Oil is not communicated anywhere on the product page. Night-only use guidance is not prominently displayed.

Test Transparency

Grade CConcern6/15

No independent study, efficacy test, or safety assessment is publicly accessible.

No independent study, efficacy test, or safety assessment is publicly accessible. The misleading retinol claim is not supported by any publicly accessible formulation data. No documentation addresses the Bakuchi Oil phototoxicity risk.

Consumer Clarity

Concern2/5

The product name creates a false expectation for consumers expecting retinol activity.

The product name creates a false expectation for consumers expecting retinol activity. The Bakuchi Oil phototoxic risk is not disclosed. Night-only use is not prominently communicated despite being essential for a product containing both a vitamin A derivative and phototoxic botanical oil.

Ingredient list

29 ingredients · INCI order

SafeNoteCaution

Ingredient	What it does
Aqua	Solvent base
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice	Soothing and anti-inflammatory base, replaces some water content
Sucrose	Humectant and texture modifier
Propanediol	Plant-derived humectant and solvent
Squalane	Sebum-mimic, non-comedogenic emollient. Vegan (plant-derived per brand)
Isodecyl Neopentanoate	Lightweight ester emollient; fast-absorbing, non-comedogenic
Retinyl Palmitate	Retinol ester (NOT pure retinol). Three enzymatic steps to retinoic acid vs. two for retinol. Significantly lower potency per equivalent concentration than retinol. Brand markets as '1% Retinol' - misleading claim
Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract	Apple stem cell extract; antioxidant and marketing-forward. Limited clinical evidence for topical efficacy

Show all 29 ingredients

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein	Amino acid hydrolysate; film-forming skin conditioning
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein	Amino acid hydrolysate; firming and film-forming
Glycine	Amino acid; skin-conditioning and collagen building block
Proline	Amino acid; collagen precursor, skin-conditioning
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate	Low-MW HA; penetrates upper dermis for deeper hydration
Psoralea Corylifolia (Bakuchi) Oil	Bakuchi whole seed oil - contains Bakuchiol (retinol alternative) BUT also phototoxic psoralens (furanocoumarins). Not equivalent to isolated Bakuchiol. Use at night only
Benzyl Alcohol	Preservative and EU fragrance allergen in a leave-on treatment
Hydroxyacetophenone	Antioxidant and preservative booster
Caprylyl Glycol	Mild preservative booster
Xanthan Gum	Ferment-derived biopolymer thickener
Glycerin	Humectant
Lecithin	Phospholipid emulsifier, skin-compatible penetration aid
Phenoxyethanol	Preservative; combined with Benzyl Alcohol for a dual preservative system
Sorbitol	Polyol humectant
Cyclodextrin	Molecular encapsulant for active stability and even delivery
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer	Polymer thickener/stabiliser
Isohexadecane	Synthetic hydrocarbon emollient; non-comedogenic
Polysorbate 60	Non-ionic emulsifier
Sodium Gluconate	Chelating agent, preservative support
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate	Polymer rheology modifier
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer	Polymer thickener/stabiliser for aqueous phase

INCI order as declared on packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high to low).

Regulatory screen

Each ingredient mapped against 10 global regulatory authorities

EU 1223/2009EU Cosmetics Regulation - Annexes II–VI

Retinyl Palmitate: EU Annex V entry 13a limits vitamin A derivatives in face leave-on products to 0.3% (3,000 IU/g); Psoralea corylifolia: SCCS expressed concern about psoralen-containing extracts in leave-on cosmetics (SCCS/1529/14)

India CR 2020India Cosmetics Rules, CDSCO

No flagged substances

Health Canada HotlistCanada prohibited & restricted ingredients

No flagged substances

US FDA 21 CFRUS FDA Parts 700–740

No flagged substances

MFDS KoreaKorea Cosmetics Act

No flagged substances

ECHA SVHCSubstances of Very High Concern

No flagged substances

IARCCarcinogen classifications Groups 1/2A/2B

No flagged substances

AICIS AustraliaAustralian industrial chemical safety

No flagged substances

TGA AustraliaTherapeutic claims (if applicable)

No flagged substances

Canada NHPIDNatural health product ingredients

No flagged substances

Flags are based on publicly available INCI only. Not a substitute for full regulatory compliance review.

Claims check

Each marketing claim assessed against publicly available evidence

1% RetinolNot publicly supported

INCI list shows Retinyl Palmitate, not Retinol. These are different ingredients with different potency. The product name is a misleading claim.

Missing

Bakuchiol (retinol alternative)Needs proof

The formula uses Bakuchi Oil (whole seed oil), not isolated Bakuchiol. Bakuchi Oil contains phototoxic psoralens not present in isolated Bakuchiol.

Mentioned only

Anti-aging / reduces wrinklesNeeds proof

Retinoid mechanism for cell turnover is established but Retinyl Palmitate is significantly weaker than Retinol per equivalent dose. No formula-specific study published.

Mentioned only