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10% Niacinamide & Rice Water Brightening Serum

Good

10% Niacinamide & Rice Water Brightening Serum

Hyperpigmentation, uneven tone, blemishes, oiliness, pore appearance

INCI VerifiedVegan (Certified)Cruelty-Free (PETA)Paraben-Free10% NiacinamideRose Water (Fragrance Allergens)Sesame Protein Allergen RiskLicorice + Niacinamide Dual BrighteningRice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
24
Safe
0
Note
3
Caution
Rs. 721 - Rs. 849Analysed 20 May 2026
10% Niacinamide & Rice Water Brightening Serum
Key Actives
Niacinamide (10%)
Inhibits melanosome transfer at keratinocyte junction; sebum-regulating; anti-inflammatory (IL-6, IL-8 reduction)
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract + Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
Brightening, barrier support, and ferment-derived antioxidant protection
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Glabridin tyrosinase inhibitor; complementary brightening mechanism to Niacinamide
Caffeine
PDE inhibitor; anti-inflammatory, mild vasoconstriction, anti-puffiness
Squalane
Sebum-mimic emollient, non-comedogenic; barrier supportive
Expert Summary

A 10% Niacinamide serum supported by a well-chosen supporting cast: Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake) with established brightening and barrier evidence, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice Root) for tyrosinase synergy with Niacinamide, and Caffeine for anti-inflammatory and anti-puffiness benefit. The formula is tactically built for melanin-transfer inhibition (Niacinamide), enzyme-level depigmentation (Licorice/Glabridin), and barrier support (Squalane, Rice Extract). Two concerns: (1) Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water at position 11 introduces EU fragrance allergens (geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, linalool) into a leave-on serum. (2) Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol at position 17 - sesame protein hydrolysate is a potential allergen for individuals with sesame hypersensitivity.

Score Breakdown
84/100 points
Safety & ToxicityStrong

All ingredients comply with EU Regulation 1223/2009 and India CDSCO requirements. No chemical penetration enhancers are present. Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water at position 11 contains geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, and linalool - all designated fragrance allergens under EU Regulation 2023/1545. For leave-on products, individual disclosure is required above 0.01% from 2026. Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, at position 17, is a silicone-grafted sesame protein conditioning agent. Sesame is a major food allergen, and cross-sensitisation to topical sesame protein hydrolysates has been reported in the scientific literature; anyone with sesame hypersensitivity should avoid this product or patch test carefully. Benzyl Alcohol serves as both a preservative and a fragrance allergen in this leave-on product - its dual role is not communicated on the product page. Niacinamide at 10% can cause a brief flush in a small proportion of people due to prostaglandin-mediated vasodilation; this is transient and not a safety concern.

Formulation Quality & EfficacyExcellent

Niacinamide at position 2 in the INCI confirms 10% concentration (brand-stated), which is the range with the strongest documented evidence for inhibiting melanin transfer from pigment cells into skin cells, and for regulating sebum production. Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake) has evidence for skin brightening, barrier support, and antioxidant protection through its fermented vitamin and amino acid content. Licorice Root Extract (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) contains glabridin, which inhibits tyrosinase - a complementary brightening mechanism to Niacinamide's melanosome transfer inhibition. Together, these two ingredients address hyperpigmentation from two different directions. Caffeine at position 12 adds anti-inflammatory benefit by inhibiting phosphodiesterase, and provides mild vasoconstriction useful for reducing pore appearance. Squalane and Isodecyl Neopentanoate provide a non-comedogenic, skin-compatible emollient base. Cyclodextrin supports active stabilisation and even delivery. Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E) appears late in the INCI, suggesting it is present at a trace rather than primary active concentration.

Ingredient Disclosure & TransparencyGood

10% Niacinamide is confirmed by the brand. Full INCI is published on the product page, which is above average practice for the Indian market. No clinical study data has been published for this specific formula. The fragrance allergen content of Rosa Damascena Flower Water - specifically geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, and linalool - is not communicated to consumers in the product description. The allergen potential of the sesame protein hydrolysate is also not flagged on the product page.

Ethics & SustainabilityGood

Plum is certified 100% vegan and PETA cruelty-free. The brand does not sell into markets requiring mandatory animal testing. Rosa Damascena cultivation is water-intensive and the sourcing region is not specified. Rice by-products (rice water, ferment filtrate) are a positive choice - they make use of agricultural by-products from rice milling rather than dedicated crop production. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic petrochemical polymer. Ethylhexyl Olivate is a natural-derived ester from olive oil.

🇮🇳
India Skin Context

Niacinamide at 10% is the most evidence-backed concentration for reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) in Fitzpatrick III-VI skin types common across India. The Rice Ferment + Licorice combination adds multi-mechanism support - particularly relevant for the Indian market where brightening is the primary skincare goal across all demographics. Suitable year-round given the non-sensitising, non-photosensitising actives (except the Rose Water). The sesame protein hydrolysate is a noteworthy allergen flag for individuals with sesame hypersensitivity, which has higher prevalence in South Asian populations.

Full Ingredient List
Safe Note Caution
IngredientNoteStatus
Aqua
Solvent baseSafe
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3; position 2 confirms 10% (brand-stated). Melanosome transfer inhibitor, sebum-regulating, anti-inflammatorySafe
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract
Rice water concentrate; brightening, antioxidant, and barrier support. Position 3 indicates high concentrationSafe
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Lightweight synthetic ester emollient; non-comedogenicSafe
Squalane
Sebum-mimic; non-comedogenic, barrier-supportive emollientSafe
Sorbitol
Polyol humectant; skin-conditioningSafe
Pentylene Glycol
Humectant and mild preservative boosterSafe
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Synthetic emollient polymer; skin feel modifierSafe
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)
Fermented rice filtrate; vitamins, amino acids, and antioxidants from fermentation; skin brightening evidenceSafe
Butylene Glycol
Humectant and solventSafe
Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water
Fragrance-active floral water. Contains EU allergens: geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, linalool. Leave-on threshold 0.01% under EU 2023/1545Caution
Caffeine
PDE inhibitor; anti-inflammatory and mild vasoconstrictor. Complements Niacinamide for pore-tightening effectSafe
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Glabridin content inhibits tyrosinase; complementary depigmentation mechanism to NiacinamideSafe
Glycerin
Humectant, barrier-supportiveSafe
Acrylates Copolymer
Polymer rheology modifier/thickenerSafe
VP/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester
Film-forming polymer for skin feel and textureSafe
Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol
Silicone-grafted sesame protein hydrolysate; conditioning agent. Sesame protein is a recognised allergen; cross-sensitisation risk for sesame-allergic individualsCaution
Benzyl Alcohol
Preservative and EU-listed fragrance allergen. Dual role not typically communicated to consumersCaution
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant preservative boosterSafe
Caprylyl Glycol
Mild preservative booster and humectantSafe
Ethylhexyl Olivate
Olive-derived ester emollient; skin-compatibleSafe
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Polymer thickenerSafe
Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olive-derived non-ionic emulsifier; skin-compatibleSafe
Cyclodextrin
Molecular encapsulant; stabilises and supports even delivery of activesSafe
Sodium Hyaluronate
High-MW HA salt; surface moisture filmSafe
Tocopheryl Acetate
Vitamin E ester; antioxidant at trace concentrationSafe
Sodium Gluconate
Chelating agent; supports preservative efficacySafe

Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).

About this scorecard

Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.

The Clean Sheet does not use fear-based ingredient labels. We assess products through a structured evidence hierarchy:

  • What global regulations say
  • What toxicology says
  • What the formula concentration shows
  • What the product format changes
  • What the intended user needs
  • What testing evidence proves
  • What the brand is claiming
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