10% Niacinamide & Rice Water Brightening Serum
Good10% Niacinamide & Rice Water Brightening Serum
Hyperpigmentation, uneven tone, blemishes, oiliness, pore appearance

A 10% Niacinamide serum supported by a well-chosen supporting cast: Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake) with established brightening and barrier evidence, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice Roo…

A 10% Niacinamide serum supported by a well-chosen supporting cast: Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake) with established brightening and barrier evidence, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice Root) for tyrosinase synergy with Niacinamide, and Caffeine for anti-inflammatory and anti-puffiness benefit. The formula is tactically built for melanin-transfer inhibition (Niacinamide), enzyme-level depigmentation (Licorice/Glabridin), and barrier support (Squalane, Rice Extract). Two concerns: (1) Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water at position 11 introduces EU fragrance allergens (geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, linalool) into a leave-on serum. (2) Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol at position 17 - sesame protein hydrolysate is a potential allergen for individuals with sesame hypersensitivity.
All ingredients comply with EU Regulation 1223/2009 and India CDSCO requirements. No chemical penetration enhancers are present. Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water at position 11 contains geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, and linalool - all designated fragrance allergens under EU Regulation 2023/1545. For leave-on products, individual disclosure is required above 0.01% from 2026. Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, at position 17, is a silicone-grafted sesame protein conditioning agent. Sesame is a major food allergen, and cross-sensitisation to topical sesame protein hydrolysates has been reported in the scientific literature; anyone with sesame hypersensitivity should avoid this product or patch test carefully. Benzyl Alcohol serves as both a preservative and a fragrance allergen in this leave-on product - its dual role is not communicated on the product page. Niacinamide at 10% can cause a brief flush in a small proportion of people due to prostaglandin-mediated vasodilation; this is transient and not a safety concern.
Niacinamide at position 2 in the INCI confirms 10% concentration (brand-stated), which is the range with the strongest documented evidence for inhibiting melanin transfer from pigment cells into skin cells, and for regulating sebum production. Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake) has evidence for skin brightening, barrier support, and antioxidant protection through its fermented vitamin and amino acid content. Licorice Root Extract (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) contains glabridin, which inhibits tyrosinase - a complementary brightening mechanism to Niacinamide's melanosome transfer inhibition. Together, these two ingredients address hyperpigmentation from two different directions. Caffeine at position 12 adds anti-inflammatory benefit by inhibiting phosphodiesterase, and provides mild vasoconstriction useful for reducing pore appearance. Squalane and Isodecyl Neopentanoate provide a non-comedogenic, skin-compatible emollient base. Cyclodextrin supports active stabilisation and even delivery. Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E) appears late in the INCI, suggesting it is present at a trace rather than primary active concentration.
10% Niacinamide is confirmed by the brand. Full INCI is published on the product page, which is above average practice for the Indian market. No clinical study data has been published for this specific formula. The fragrance allergen content of Rosa Damascena Flower Water - specifically geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, and linalool - is not communicated to consumers in the product description. The allergen potential of the sesame protein hydrolysate is also not flagged on the product page.
Plum is certified 100% vegan and PETA cruelty-free. The brand does not sell into markets requiring mandatory animal testing. Rosa Damascena cultivation is water-intensive and the sourcing region is not specified. Rice by-products (rice water, ferment filtrate) are a positive choice - they make use of agricultural by-products from rice milling rather than dedicated crop production. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic petrochemical polymer. Ethylhexyl Olivate is a natural-derived ester from olive oil.
Niacinamide at 10% is the most evidence-backed concentration for reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) in Fitzpatrick III-VI skin types common across India. The Rice Ferment + Licorice combination adds multi-mechanism support - particularly relevant for the Indian market where brightening is the primary skincare goal across all demographics. Suitable year-round given the non-sensitising, non-photosensitising actives (except the Rose Water). The sesame protein hydrolysate is a noteworthy allergen flag for individuals with sesame hypersensitivity, which has higher prevalence in South Asian populations.
| Ingredient | Note | Status |
|---|---|---|
Aqua | Solvent base | Safe |
Niacinamide | Vitamin B3; position 2 confirms 10% (brand-stated). Melanosome transfer inhibitor, sebum-regulating, anti-inflammatory | Safe |
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract | Rice water concentrate; brightening, antioxidant, and barrier support. Position 3 indicates high concentration | Safe |
Isodecyl Neopentanoate | Lightweight synthetic ester emollient; non-comedogenic | Safe |
Squalane | Sebum-mimic; non-comedogenic, barrier-supportive emollient | Safe |
Sorbitol | Polyol humectant; skin-conditioning | Safe |
Pentylene Glycol | Humectant and mild preservative booster | Safe |
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene | Synthetic emollient polymer; skin feel modifier | Safe |
Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake) | Fermented rice filtrate; vitamins, amino acids, and antioxidants from fermentation; skin brightening evidence | Safe |
Butylene Glycol | Humectant and solvent | Safe |
Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water | Fragrance-active floral water. Contains EU allergens: geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, linalool. Leave-on threshold 0.01% under EU 2023/1545 | Caution |
Caffeine | PDE inhibitor; anti-inflammatory and mild vasoconstrictor. Complements Niacinamide for pore-tightening effect | Safe |
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract | Glabridin content inhibits tyrosinase; complementary depigmentation mechanism to Niacinamide | Safe |
Glycerin | Humectant, barrier-supportive | Safe |
Acrylates Copolymer | Polymer rheology modifier/thickener | Safe |
VP/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester | Film-forming polymer for skin feel and texture | Safe |
Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol | Silicone-grafted sesame protein hydrolysate; conditioning agent. Sesame protein is a recognised allergen; cross-sensitisation risk for sesame-allergic individuals | Caution |
Benzyl Alcohol | Preservative and EU-listed fragrance allergen. Dual role not typically communicated to consumers | Caution |
Hydroxyacetophenone | Antioxidant preservative booster | Safe |
Caprylyl Glycol | Mild preservative booster and humectant | Safe |
Ethylhexyl Olivate | Olive-derived ester emollient; skin-compatible | Safe |
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer | Polymer thickener | Safe |
Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate | Olive-derived non-ionic emulsifier; skin-compatible | Safe |
Cyclodextrin | Molecular encapsulant; stabilises and supports even delivery of actives | Safe |
Sodium Hyaluronate | High-MW HA salt; surface moisture film | Safe |
Tocopheryl Acetate | Vitamin E ester; antioxidant at trace concentration | Safe |
Sodium Gluconate | Chelating agent; supports preservative efficacy | Safe |
Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).
Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.
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- What global regulations say
- What toxicology says
- What the formula concentration shows
- What the product format changes
- What the intended user needs
- What testing evidence proves
- What the brand is claiming