15% Vitamin C & Mandarin Glow Boost Serum
Good15% Vitamin C & Mandarin Glow Boost Serum
Dullness, hyperpigmentation, antioxidant protection, uneven tone

A vitamin C serum built on Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid), a stable ethylated derivative that converts to ascorbic acid enzymatically in the epidermis. At 15% (brand…

A vitamin C serum built on Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid), a stable ethylated derivative that converts to ascorbic acid enzymatically in the epidermis. At 15% (brand-stated), concentration is at the high end of the effective range for this derivative. Kakadu Plum extract provides natural vitamin C synergy. Two formulation flags: (1) Ethoxy Diglycol (Ethoxydiglycol = Transcutol) at position 6 is a confirmed chemical penetration enhancer (CPE) that increases systemic absorption of all co-formulated actives; (2) Rosa Damascena Extract contains known EU fragrance allergens (geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, linalool) in a leave-on product. Unlike benchmark vitamin C formulas (Phloretin CF, CE Ferulic), this serum lacks Ferulic Acid or Tocopherol co-antioxidants, which limits UV photoprotective synergy.
Ethoxydiglycol (also known as Transcutol) is a confirmed chemical penetration enhancer. It is present at position 6 in the INCI, suggesting a meaningful concentration. Its function is to increase how deeply all co-formulated ingredients penetrate the skin - which accelerates active delivery but also means that any co-formulated sensitisers reach deeper tissue layers. SCCS guidance requires enhanced safety assessment for formulas containing penetration enhancers for this reason. Rosa Damascena (Rose) Extract contains geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, and linalool, all of which are designated fragrance allergens under EU Regulation 2023/1545. For leave-on products, individual disclosure is required above 0.01% from 2026. Benzyl Alcohol appears at position 12 and acts as both a preservative and a fragrance allergen - this dual role is rarely communicated to consumers. Mandarin Peel Extract at position 9 may contain phototoxic furanocoumarins (bergapten, bergamottin) depending on the extraction method; cold-pressed peel retains more than distilled forms. All remaining ingredients are compliant with EU Regulation 1223/2009 and India CDSCO requirements.
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a photostable and hydrolytically stable vitamin C derivative that converts to ascorbic acid enzymatically in the epidermis. At 15% (brand-stated), it is towards the high end of effective dosing for this derivative form. Cyclodextrin and the polymer system support stable delivery and even distribution. Kakadu Plum Extract is the world's highest natural source of vitamin C and adds antioxidant polyphenols. Mandarin Peel Extract contributes citrus flavonoids. One notable gap: Ferulic Acid and Tocopherol (vitamin E) are absent from this formula. The combination of vitamin C, vitamin E, and Ferulic Acid - documented in research by Pinnell et al. (2005) - doubles the photoprotective efficacy of the vitamin C alone and photostabilises the active pair. Their absence is a missed opportunity for a morning antioxidant serum. Isodecyl Neopentanoate is a lightweight emollient ester for skin feel.
The 15% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid concentration is disclosed by the brand. Full INCI is published on the product page, which is above average practice for the Indian market. No clinical study data or dermatologist-tested evidence has been published for this specific formula. The fragrance allergen content of Rosa Damascena Extract and the dual preservative-allergen role of Benzyl Alcohol are not communicated to consumers. The phototoxic furanocoumarin potential of Mandarin Peel Extract is not flagged for morning use.
Plum is certified 100% vegan and PETA cruelty-free. The brand is based in Thane, India, and does not sell into markets requiring mandatory animal testing. Ethoxydiglycol is a synthetic petrochemical. Rosa Damascena cultivation is water-intensive and the sourcing region and sustainability practices are not disclosed. Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract has a lower environmental footprint by comparison - citrus peel is a by-product of juice production rather than a dedicated crop. No palm certification such as RSPO is noted.
A 15% stable vitamin C derivative is a strong dose for daily brightening in India's hyperpigmentation-prone population. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid outperforms L-ascorbic acid in stability during India's high heat and humidity - a critical advantage. The Ethoxydiglycol CPE boosts active penetration which may accelerate brightening results but also means co-applied sensitisers penetrate deeper. The lack of Ferulic Acid is a missed opportunity for photo-synergy that would otherwise amplify efficacy under India's UV Index 8-11+ conditions. Apply in the evening if not pairing with a high-SPF sunscreen.
| Ingredient | Note | Status |
|---|---|---|
Aqua | Solvent base | Safe |
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid; brand-stated 15%. Stable, enzymatically converts to ascorbic acid in epidermis | Safe |
Propanediol | Plant-derived humectant and solvent | Safe |
Betaine | Natural humectant derived from sugar beet; skin-conditioning, osmolyte function | Safe |
Isodecyl Neopentanoate | Lightweight synthetic ester emollient; non-comedogenic, fast-absorbing skin feel | Safe |
Ethoxy Diglycol | Ethoxydiglycol (Transcutol) - confirmed CPE. Increases percutaneous absorption of all co-formulated actives. Position 6 suggests meaningful concentration. Non-standard INCI spelling. | Caution |
Sodium Citrate | Buffer salt maintaining acidic pH for vitamin C stability | Safe |
Citric Acid | pH adjuster maintaining acidic environment required for Ethyl Ascorbic Acid stability | Safe |
Citrus Reticulata (Mandarin) Peel Extract | Citrus flavonoids and limonene; antioxidant and brightening. Peel extracts may contain phototoxic furanocoumarins depending on extraction method | Note |
Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) Fruit Extract | Natural Vitamin C synergy; polyphenol antioxidants | Safe |
Rosa Damascena (Rose) Extract | Anti-inflammatory polyphenols but contains EU fragrance allergens: geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, linalool. Leave-on allergen threshold (0.01%) applies under EU 2023/1545 | Caution |
Benzyl Alcohol | Dual role: preservative and EU-listed fragrance allergen. In a leave-on product, allergen labelling threshold applies at 0.01% under EU 2023/1545 | Caution |
Hydroxyacetophenone | Antioxidant and preservative booster; low sensitisation risk | Safe |
Caprylyl Glycol | Mild preservative booster and humectant | Safe |
Trilaureth-4 Phosphate | Non-ionic emulsifier/solubiliser | Safe |
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate | Polymer rheology modifier (thickener/stabiliser) | Safe |
Xanthan Gum | Ferment-derived biopolymer thickener | Safe |
Sodium Gluconate | Chelating agent; enhances preservative efficacy by sequestering metal ions | Safe |
Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).
Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.
The Clean Sheet does not use fear-based ingredient labels. We assess products through a structured evidence hierarchy:
- What global regulations say
- What toxicology says
- What the formula concentration shows
- What the product format changes
- What the intended user needs
- What testing evidence proves
- What the brand is claiming