PLUMSerums

15% Vitamin C & Mandarin Glow Boost Serum

A high-dose stable vitamin C serum with good formula logic, but the Rosa Damascena fragrance allergens in a leave-on and the undisclosed Ethoxydiglycol penetration enhancement are material gaps the brand should address.

15% Vitamin C & Mandarin Glow Boost Serum
64
Fair
Avoid if
  • You have fragrance sensitivities
  • You are new to active skincare - patch test first

Rs. 599 - Rs. 790 • Analysed 10 June 2026

India Context

A 15% stable vitamin C derivative is a strong dose for daily brightening in India's hyperpigmentation-prone population. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid outperforms L-ascorbic acid in stability during India's high heat and humidity. The Ethoxydiglycol CPE boosts active penetration but also means co-formulated sensitisers penetrate deeper. The lack of Ferulic Acid is a missed opportunity for photo-synergy under India's UV Index 8-11+. Apply in the evening.

This is a web evidence review, not a Clean Sheet certification. We checked the ingredient list, publicly available test reports, marketing claims, and formula logic using only public information available at the time of review.

At a glance

Fragrance free
Alcohol free
Paraben free
Vegan

What was checked

Each claim checked against publicly available evidence: published test reports, the ingredient list, and regulatory data.

15% Vitamin CVerified

Brand explicitly states 15% 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid on label.

Published evidence
Brightens skin / reduces dark spotsNeeds context

Vitamin C mechanism for melanin inhibition is established, but no formula-specific study has been published.

Brand claim
Fragrance-freeNot found

Rosa Damascena extract and Benzyl Alcohol are sources of fragrance allergens. The product is not fragrance-free.

Not found
Verified: confirmed from public evidenceSupported: consistent with available evidenceNeeds context: relevant for some usersNot verified: could not be confirmed

Score breakdown

Needs proof

Public Evidence Score across 5 pillars. Open any row for the full rationale.

Ingredient Safety
Good22/30

Rosa Damascena (Rose) extract is included in this leave-on serum.

Rosa Damascena (Rose) extract is included in this leave-on serum. Rose extract is a botanical that naturally contains fragrance compounds, including geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, and linalool, which are among the most frequently cited causes of skin reactions in cosmetics. Their presence in a daily leave-on product is a meaningful safety consideration that is not communicated to consumers. Ethoxydiglycol, appearing relatively early in the ingredient list, is a confirmed penetration enhancer that increases how deeply all co-formulated actives absorb into the skin. Benzyl Alcohol serves a dual role here as both preservative and fragrance allergen. No synthetic Parfum is added, no parabens, no EU Annex II banned substances. As a leave-on formula, allergen exposure is daily and continuous.

Formula Logic
Good18/25

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid at 15% is a meaningful dose of a photostable, heat-stable vitamin C derivative, well-suited to India's climate where L-ascorbic acid degrades quickly.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid at 15% is a meaningful dose of a photostable, heat-stable vitamin C derivative, well-suited to India's climate where L-ascorbic acid degrades quickly. Kakadu Plum adds natural antioxidant synergy. The formula is otherwise clean and purposeful. One meaningful gap: the most clinically studied vitamin C formulas combine ascorbic acid with Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E, which roughly doubles the antioxidant and photoprotective efficacy. Neither is present here. Ethoxydiglycol's penetration-enhancing effect may improve vitamin C delivery into skin, but it also increases the extent to which the rose extract's allergen components absorb.

Claims Evidence
Fair14/25

The 15% vitamin C concentration is disclosed on-label, which is above the Indian market average for transparency.

The 15% vitamin C concentration is disclosed on-label, which is above the Indian market average for transparency. The full INCI is published on the brand website. No active concentrations are disclosed beyond the vitamin C. The fragrance allergens present from Rosa Damascena are not communicated anywhere in the product communications. Mandarin Peel's phototoxicity risk for daytime use is not flagged. No clinical study for this formula has been published.

Test Transparency
Grade CFair7/15

No independent clinical study, efficacy test, or safety assessment is publicly accessible for this product.

No independent clinical study, efficacy test, or safety assessment is publicly accessible for this product. The disclosed 15% concentration is a positive baseline transparency step. No published study supports the brightening claims specific to this formula.

Consumer Clarity
Good3/5

The 15% vitamin C concentration is clearly communicated.

The 15% vitamin C concentration is clearly communicated. Ethoxydiglycol's penetration-enhancing mechanism is not explained to consumers. The fragrance allergen content of Rosa Damascena and Benzyl Alcohol's dual preservative-allergen role are not disclosed. Evening use guidance is not prominent.

Ingredient list

18 ingredients · INCI order

SafeNoteCaution
Ingredient
Aqua
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Propanediol
Betaine
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Ethoxy Diglycol
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Show all 18 ingredients
Citrus Reticulata (Mandarin) Peel Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu Plum) Fruit Extract
Rosa Damascena (Rose) Extract
Benzyl Alcohol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylyl Glycol
Trilaureth-4 Phosphate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Gluconate

INCI order as declared on packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high to low).

Regulatory screen

Each ingredient mapped against 10 global regulatory authorities

EU 1223/2009EU Cosmetics Regulation - Annexes II–VI

No banned substances; Rosa Damascena contains allergens requiring labelling above 0.01% in leave-on products under EU 2023/1545

India CR 2020India Cosmetics Rules, CDSCO

No flagged substances

Health Canada HotlistCanada prohibited & restricted ingredients

No flagged substances

US FDA 21 CFRUS FDA Parts 700–740

No flagged substances

MFDS KoreaKorea Cosmetics Act

No flagged substances

ECHA SVHCSubstances of Very High Concern

No flagged substances

IARCCarcinogen classifications Groups 1/2A/2B

No flagged substances

AICIS AustraliaAustralian industrial chemical safety

No flagged substances

TGA AustraliaTherapeutic claims (if applicable)

No flagged substances

Canada NHPIDNatural health product ingredients

No flagged substances

Flags are based on publicly available INCI only. Not a substitute for full regulatory compliance review.

Claims check

Each marketing claim assessed against publicly available evidence

15% Vitamin CPublicly supported

Brand explicitly states 15% 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid on label.

Evidence visible

Brightens skin / reduces dark spotsNeeds proof

Vitamin C mechanism for melanin inhibition is established, but no formula-specific study has been published.

Mentioned only

Fragrance-freeNot publicly supported

Rosa Damascena extract and Benzyl Alcohol are sources of fragrance allergens. The product is not fragrance-free.

Missing

What would improve this score

Public evidence the brand could provide to close verification gaps

  • Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E absent - photoprotective synergy significantly reduced vs. established antioxidant triples
  • Rose extract fragrance allergens not disclosed to consumers
  • Ethoxydiglycol penetration-enhancing mechanism not communicated
  • Mandarin peel phototoxicity risk not flagged
  • No clinical study published for this formula
About this review

A high-dose stable vitamin C serum with good formula logic, but the Rosa Damascena fragrance allergens in a leave-on and the undisclosed Ethoxydiglycol penetration enhancement are material gaps the brand should address.

Independent reviewPublic evidence only
Full methodology
  • What global regulations say about each ingredient
  • What toxicology evidence shows at cosmetic concentrations
  • What formula concentration context changes
  • What the product format and leave-on contact time changes
  • What the stated user group needs
  • What published test evidence confirms
  • What the brand is claiming vs what evidence supports

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