DOT & KEYMoisturizers

Retinol + Ceramide Youth Restoring Night Cream

This is the most significant transparency concern in the Dot & Key range. The product is named and marketed as a 'Retinol' night cream, but the active ingredient in the ingredient list is Retinyl Palmitate, a retinol ester with substantially lower potency. Retinyl Palmitate requires two metabolic conversion steps to reach the active form (retinoic acid), versus one for actual Retinol. Clinical evidence for Retinyl Palmitate at cosmetic concentrations is materially weaker. Additionally, the INCI position of Retinyl Palmitate suggests low concentration. The product also contains three cosmetic dyes (CI 16185, CI 19140, CI 42090) and Parfum. The ceramide complex (Ceramide NP, AP, EOP) is genuinely present and beneficial, but the naming and ingredient mismatch is a clear disclosure concern.

NEEDSPROOF

Needs Proof

Best for

Skincare beginners

Avoid if

Using other actives or daytime without SPF
Contains Fragrance
You have fragrance sensitivities

₹549-₹899 • Analysed 11 June 2026

India Context

Anti-ageing actives are a growing segment in India, with consumers increasingly researching ingredients. The 'Retinol' naming creates a false equivalence with clinical retinol products. Indian consumers comparing this to The Ordinary Retinol or prescription Tretinoin will have misaligned expectations. The ceramide base is genuinely good, but the retinoid claim requires clear correction.

Key Ingredients

Aqua (Water)•Glycerin•Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideView all ingredients

NEEDSPROOF

Compare

Buy Now

Check brand website

Ingredient & Safety

Formula Logic

Public Claim Support

Transparency

Consumer Clarity

This is a web evidence review, not a Clean Sheet certification. We checked the ingredient list, publicly available test reports, marketing claims, and formula logic using only public information available at the time of review.

At a glance

✓Alcohol free

✓Paraben free

What was checked

3 claims checked against public evidence

Fair

Retinol (product name)Not found

Active ingredient is Retinyl Palmitate, not Retinol. Two conversion steps to active form versus one for actual Retinol. Materially different bioavailability and potency at cosmetic concentrations.

Not found

Anti-ageing / skin renewal (via retinoid)Needs context

Retinyl Palmitate at late INCI position suggests low concentration. Evidence for anti-ageing activity at likely concentrations is weak.

Brand claim

Ceramide barrier benefitVerified

Ceramide NP/AP/EOP + Cholesterol is well-supported in published barrier science.

Published evidence

Verified: confirmed from public evidenceSupported: consistent with available evidenceNeeds context: relevant for some usersNot verified: could not be confirmed

The breakdown

Needs proof

Public Evidence Score across 5 pillars. Open any row for the full rationale.

Ingredient Safety

Fair

Parfum (synthetic fragrance) is present in this leave-on overnight cream. An overnight product sits on the skin for eight or more hours continuously, which significantly amplifies the sensitisation risk from fragrance compared to a rinse-off or daytime product. The specific allergens within 'Parfum' are not named. Three cosmetic azo dyes are also present - CI 16185 (Red 17), CI 19140 (Tartrazine), and CI 42090 (Brilliant Blue FCF) - making this the highest dye load in the Dot & Key range. None of them have any therapeutic benefit and all three carry documented allergen potential, with CI 19140 (Tartrazine) being a known cross-reactor in individuals with aspirin sensitivity. Retinyl Palmitate is a retinoid and warrants pregnancy precautions as a general category note.

Formula Logic

Good

The ceramide complex (NP, AP, EOP, and Cholesterol) is the formulation's genuine strength. Niacinamide adds anti-ageing and barrier benefit. Retinyl Palmitate appears late in the ingredient list, suggesting a low concentration, and it requires two metabolic conversion steps to reach the biologically active form. At a low concentration and with the added conversion barrier, meaningful anti-ageing retinoid activity in this product is unlikely. The three azo dyes and fragrance add no skin benefit while increasing sensitisation risk.

Claims Evidence

Fair

The product is named and marketed as a 'Retinol' night cream, but the retinoid ingredient in the ingredient list is Retinyl Palmitate - a different molecule with materially lower...

The product is named and marketed as a 'Retinol' night cream, but the retinoid ingredient in the ingredient list is Retinyl Palmitate - a different molecule with materially lower potency. Consumers comparing this to other retinol products or to clinical retinol recommendations will have a false sense of equivalence. The full ingredient list is published on dotandkey.com. Three azo dyes are present as pure colourants, but this is not communicated to consumers. The fragrance allergen breakdown is also not disclosed.

“Retinol (product name)” Active ingredient is Retinyl Palmitate, not Retinol. Two conversion steps to active form versus one for actual Retinol. Materially different bioavailability and potency at cosmetic concentrations.

“Anti-ageing / skin renewal (via retinoid)” Retinyl Palmitate at late INCI position suggests low concentration. Evidence for anti-ageing activity at likely concentrations is weak.

“Ceramide barrier benefit” Ceramide NP/AP/EOP + Cholesterol is well-supported in published barrier science.

Test Transparency

Grade DGood

No clinical study published for this product. The Retinol claim is not supported by INCI evidence. No consumer-accessible efficacy data. Grade D reflects the Retinyl Palmitate mislabelling and absence of test data for the primary claimed benefit.

Consumer Clarity

Good

Full INCI list published but the product name directly contradicts the INCI (Retinol vs Retinyl Palmitate). Three azo dyes present without communicating colourant purpose. Parfum without constituent disclosure. Significant clarity gap.

Ingredient list

15 ingredients · INCI order

Fair

SafeNoteCaution

Ingredient	What it does
Aqua (Water)	Solvent base
Glycerin	Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride	Emollient, skin-identical, non-comedogenic
Ceramide NP	Barrier lipid, well-studied, effective
Ceramide AP	Barrier lipid
Ceramide EOP	Barrier lipid, critical for corneocyte envelope
Cholesterol	Barrier lipid, completes the natural lamellar triad
Niacinamide	Vitamin B3, anti-ageing, barrier stimulant
Retinyl Palmitate	Retinol ester, marketed as 'Retinol' but requires two conversion steps to reach active form. Substantially less potent than actual Retinol at comparable concentrations.
Parfum	Fragrance, present in a leave-on overnight product. 8+ hours of exposure amplifies sensitisation risk. Top class of contact allergen; constituent allergens not disclosed.
CI 16185 (Red 17)	Azo dye, cosmetic colourant, no therapeutic benefit. Allergen in subpopulations.
CI 19140 (Tartrazine)	Azo dye, cosmetic colourant. Cross-reactor with aspirin sensitivity.
CI 42090 (Brilliant Blue FCF)	Azo dye, cosmetic colourant. No therapeutic benefit.
Phenoxyethanol	Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin	Co-preservative

INCI order as declared on packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high to low).

Regulatory screen

Each ingredient mapped against 10 global regulatory authorities

Review

EU 1223/2009EU Cosmetics Regulation - Annexes II–VI

Parfum present in overnight leave-on product; constituent allergens not individually disclosed

India CR 2020India Cosmetics Rules, CDSCO

No flagged substances

Health Canada HotlistCanada prohibited & restricted ingredients

No flagged substances

US FDA 21 CFRUS FDA Parts 700–740

No flagged substances

MFDS KoreaKorea Cosmetics Act

No flagged substances

ECHA SVHCSubstances of Very High Concern

No flagged substances

IARCCarcinogen classifications Groups 1/2A/2B

No flagged substances

AICIS AustraliaAustralian industrial chemical safety

No flagged substances

TGA AustraliaTherapeutic claims (if applicable)

No flagged substances

Canada NHPIDNatural health product ingredients

No flagged substances

Flags are based on publicly available INCI only. Not a substitute for full regulatory compliance review.

Claims checked

1 of 3 publicly supported

Fair

Retinol (product name)Not publicly supported

Active ingredient is Retinyl Palmitate, not Retinol. Two conversion steps to active form versus one for actual Retinol. Materially different bioavailability and potency at cosmetic concentrations.

Missing

Anti-ageing / skin renewal (via retinoid)Needs proof

Retinyl Palmitate at late INCI position suggests low concentration. Evidence for anti-ageing activity at likely concentrations is weak.

Mentioned only

Ceramide barrier benefitPublicly supported

Ceramide NP/AP/EOP + Cholesterol is well-supported in published barrier science.

Evidence visible

What would strengthen this review

Public evidence the brand could provide to close verification gaps

○Correct retinoid labelling (Retinyl Palmitate, not Retinol)
○Retinoid concentration disclosure
○Constituent allergen breakdown for Parfum
○Colourant purpose communication for three azo dyes

About this review

The ceramide base is genuinely good. The Retinyl Palmitate mislabelled as Retinol is the most significant transparency concern in the entire Dot & Key range reviewed. Combined with Parfum and three azo dyes in an overnight format, this is the lowest-scoring product in the brand.

Are you the brand? If you have published test data or want to request a re-review, write to us at hello@thecleansheet.in.

Independent reviewPublic evidence only

Full methodology