Advanced Depigmentation Serum
GoodAdvanced Depigmentation Serum
Hyperpigmentation, melasma, dark spots, uneven tone

A targeted multi-mechanism depigmentation serum combining Tranexamic Acid (TXA), Kojic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Extract, and Mel…

A targeted multi-mechanism depigmentation serum combining Tranexamic Acid (TXA), Kojic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Extract, and Melatonin. TXA at position 3 is a plasminogen inhibitor that disrupts UV-triggered melanocyte activation - it is particularly evidence-backed for melasma in Asian skin types (multiple RCTs). Kojic Acid is a well-established tyrosinase inhibitor. Licorice Root provides glabridin, also a tyrosinase pathway inhibitor. The unusual and noteworthy ingredient is Melatonin: as an antioxidant and potential melanogenesis modulator, it completes a comprehensive multi-pathway approach. Notable concern: Phenoxyethanol appears at position 6, unusually early in the INCI list.
All ingredients comply with EU Regulation 1223/2009 and India CDSCO cosmetics regulations. Tranexamic Acid is well-characterised for topical cosmetic use with no mutagenic or carcinogenic concern at these concentrations. Kojic Acid is permitted in EU leave-on face products at up to 1% (Commission Regulation 2024/858). One notable observation: Phenoxyethanol appears at position 6 in the ingredient list, which is unusually early for a preservative. In most formulas, preservatives appear near the end at around 1% or less. If this holds here, then Melatonin, D-Panthenol, and Sodium Metabisulphite — all listed after Phenoxyethanol — are at very low concentrations. This raises a genuine question about their functional contribution at those levels. Melatonin is permitted as a cosmetic ingredient in India; its regulatory status in the EU is under review as a potential borderline medicine/cosmetic, though it currently remains available in topical cosmetics.
This formula targets melanin overproduction through several independent pathways at once. Tranexamic Acid works by blocking the UV-triggered signalling from keratinocytes to melanocytes — a mechanism completely different from tyrosinase inhibition, which is why it is particularly effective for melasma. Kojic Acid and Licorice Root (glabridin) both inhibit tyrosinase at the enzyme level, slowing melanin synthesis. Pineapple Extract contributes bromelain, an enzyme that provides mild proteolytic surface exfoliation to help remove pigmented cells and accelerate brightening. Melatonin adds antioxidant protection and may have some role in modulating melanogenesis via skin receptors, though this is still emerging science. Citric Acid at the end of the list adjusts pH to support both Tranexamic Acid and Kojic Acid stability. The formula is short and purposeful. The early position of Phenoxyethanol creates legitimate uncertainty about whether the actives listed after it are present at concentrations that are functionally meaningful.
The ingredient list uses correct INCI nomenclature throughout and is verified on the brand website. Tranexamic Acid is correctly and clearly identified — a transparency positive. No active concentrations are disclosed for any ingredient. Phenoxyethanol appearing at position 6, before most of the supporting actives, raises a reasonable question: if the preservative is at its permitted maximum of 1%, the ingredients listed after it (Melatonin, Panthenol, and others) are each likely present at below 1% — which may or may not be sufficient for their intended function. The brand does not explain Melatonin's role to consumers. No clinical study data has been published for this formula.
Cruelty-free. Short, focused formula with no parabens, no synthetic fragrance, no azo dyes. Low ingredient count means a smaller environmental footprint overall. Licorice root extraction methods and sourcing are not disclosed. Tranexamic Acid is synthetic with an established safety and environmental profile.
Tranexamic Acid is one of the most evidence-backed depigmentation actives for Indian skin types. Multiple randomised controlled trials show TXA outperforms 4% hydroquinone for melasma in Asian populations with far better tolerability. For Fitzpatrick IV-VI skin types prevalent in India, where PIH is the primary cosmetic concern, the TXA + Kojic Acid + Licorice combination targets melanogenesis at three separate pathway steps. Turmeric (Curcuma Longa) extract is a culturally resonant active with genuine anti-inflammatory evidence. Use at night and always with SPF 50 in the morning - UV exposure is the primary trigger for melasma recurrence.
| Ingredient | Note | Status |
|---|---|---|
Purified Water | Solvent base | Safe |
Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract | Position 2 suggests high concentration. Bromelain enzyme for gentle proteolytic surface exfoliation; natural Vitamin C precursors | Safe |
Tranexamic acid | TXA at position 3 confirms meaningful concentration. Plasminogen inhibitor; strong clinical evidence for melasma in Asian/Indian skin types | Safe |
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract | Glabridin tyrosinase inhibitor and anti-inflammatory; position 4 confirms functional concentration | Safe |
Kojic acid | Tyrosinase copper ion chelator; inhibits DOPA oxidation pathway. Position 5 confirms functional dose. EU permitted at 1% in face leave-on | Safe |
Phenoxyethanol | Preservative at unusually early position 6. If at EU/India limit (1%), ingredients listed after this point are at very low concentrations. Position raises questions about functional concentration of subsequent actives | Caution |
Sodium Hyaluronate | High-MW HA; surface moisture film | Safe |
Melatonin | Neurohormone antioxidant; potential melanogenesis modulator via receptor pathway; emerging chronobiology active. Legal as cosmetic in India; EU borderline status | Note |
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract | Soothing and anti-inflammatory base | Safe |
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract | Curcumin antioxidant and anti-inflammatory; traditional skin brightening use in India | Safe |
Hydroxyethylcellulose | Natural-derived polymer thickener | Safe |
D-Panthenol | Pro-vitamin B5; barrier restoration and wound-healing | Safe |
Sodium Metabisulphite | Antioxidant stabiliser; prevents oxidative degradation of Kojic Acid and Tranexamic Acid | Safe |
Ethylhexylglycerin | Preservative booster | Safe |
Sodium Gluconate | Chelating agent supporting preservative and formula stability | Safe |
Citric Acid | pH adjustment to acidic range, supporting Kojic Acid and TXA stability | Safe |
Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).
Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.
The Clean Sheet does not use fear-based ingredient labels. We assess products through a structured evidence hierarchy:
- What global regulations say
- What toxicology says
- What the formula concentration shows
- What the product format changes
- What the intended user needs
- What testing evidence proves
- What the brand is claiming