The Clean Sheet
83
Kiehl'sleave on

Ultra Facial Cream

Good

Ultra Facial Cream

Daily moisturisation + barrier support

Fragrance FreeNo ParabensINCI VerifiedSqualane RichSensitive Skin FriendlyDry Skin FriendlyMyristyl Myristate (Comedogenicity Note)
17
Safe
2
Note
0
Caution
₹4,500–₹5,500Analysed 20 May 2026
Ultra Facial Cream
Key Actives
Squalane
A skin-identical emollient that is non-comedogenic, antioxidant, and barrier-supportive
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
A lightweight emollient rich in oleic acid with skin-softening properties
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
A ceramide precursor that supports natural barrier lipid synthesis
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
A marine bioferment with barrier-conditioning and antioxidant activity
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
An antioxidant that stabilises the formula and provides skin conditioning
Expert Summary

Kiehl's best-selling moisturiser: a fragrance-free, alcohol-free daily cream with a well-layered emollient base (Squalane, Apricot Kernel Oil, Avocado Oil, Sweet Almond Oil). The formula includes Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine (a ceramide precursor), Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract (barrier conditioning), and Tocopherol. Salicylic Acid appears at the tail end; at this position, it functions as a preservative booster, not as an active exfoliant at this concentration. Myristyl Myristate (position 10) has some comedogenicity data; those prone to milia or closed comedones should note this. No fragrance, no parabens, no dyes: this is the cleanest product in the Kiehl's range.

Score Breakdown
83/100 points
Safety & ToxicityExcellent

This formula is fragrance-free, paraben-free, and free from Alcohol Denat, DMDM Hydantoin, and MIT — a clean safety profile for a daily leave-on moisturiser. One ingredient worth noting for acne-prone users: Myristyl Myristate (a fatty ester emollient) has moderate comedogenicity data in occlusion studies, meaning it can clog pores for some skin types. Chlorphenesin, a halogenated co-preservative, appears at a late position and is within safe limits for leave-on use.

Formulation Quality & EfficacyStrong

The emollient base is well-layered — Squalane, Apricot Kernel Oil, Avocado Oil, and Sweet Almond Oil are all skin-compatible fats with good evidence for barrier conditioning. Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine is a ceramide precursor that supports the skin's natural barrier lipid cycle. Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is a marine bioferment with barrier-conditioning activity. This is a heritage formula — not cutting-edge, but the structure is sound and the ingredients are appropriate for the moisturising claim.

Ingredient Disclosure & TransparencyStrong

Full INCI is published on Kiehl's product page. The formula makes no inflated claims — there's no SPF, no 'clinically proven' language. That said, Kiehl's doesn't disclose the concentration of the ceramide precursor, and the comedogenicity concern from Myristyl Myristate is not mentioned anywhere in the product communication.

Ethics & SustainabilityFair

Kiehl's is owned by L'Oréal, which sells in mainland China where animal testing can be required by regulation. RSPO certification for palm-derived ingredients has not been independently verified. No PETA certification. Standard plastic and glass packaging.

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India Skin Context

For Indian consumers: the multi-oil base is well-suited for dry to normal skin but may feel heavy in humid conditions. During monsoon and summer, a lighter gel moisturiser may be preferable. The fragrance-free formula is well-suited for sensitive skin types prevalent in India's pollution-exposed urban population.

Full Ingredient List
Safe Note Caution
IngredientNoteStatus
Aqua/Water
Solvent baseSafe
Glycerin
Humectant, widely studied and safeSafe
Dimethicone
Silicone film-former providing smooth application; occlusive and non-sensitisingSafe
Squalane
Skin-identical emollient, non-comedogenic with excellent barrier supportSafe
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Silicone-PEG emulsifier with low concern at cosmetic use levelsSafe
Sucrose Stearate
Sugar-derived emulsifier that is mild and skin-compatibleSafe
Stearyl Alcohol
Fatty alcohol used as emollient and emulsion stabiliser; not dryingSafe
Myristyl Myristate
Fatty ester emollient with reported moderate comedogenicity in some occlusion studies; relevant for acne-prone skinNote
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Apricot kernel oil, lightweight with high oleic acid content and skin-softening propertiesSafe
Persea Gratissima Oil
Avocado oil, rich in oleic acid and vitamins with emollient benefitsSafe
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Rice bran oil, an emollient with antioxidant activity from gamma-oryzanolSafe
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Olive oil, an emollient and antioxidant with high oleic acid contentSafe
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Sweet almond oil, an emollient with skin-conditioning propertiesSafe
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Ceramide precursor that supports barrier lipid synthesisSafe
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Marine bioferment with barrier-conditioning and antioxidant propertiesSafe
Salicylic Acid
At tail INCI position, functions as a preservative booster and pH adjuster, not as an active exfoliant at this concentrationSafe
Tocopherol
Vitamin E, an antioxidantSafe
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative at typical cosmetic level (~0.5–0.8%)Safe
Chlorphenesin
Co-preservative, halogenated; permitted at current concentration with low risk in leave-on at tail positionNote

Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).

About this scorecard

Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.

The Clean Sheet does not use fear-based ingredient labels. We assess products through a structured evidence hierarchy:

  • What global regulations say
  • What toxicology says
  • What the formula concentration shows
  • What the product format changes
  • What the intended user needs
  • What testing evidence proves
  • What the brand is claiming
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