Bulgarian Rose & 2% Hyaluronic Acid Serum
ExcellentBulgarian Rose & 2% Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Dehydration, dryness, plumping, barrier support

A short-ingredient hydration serum using a dual-molecular-weight HA system (65% low-MW : 35% high-MW as disclosed by brand). The higher proportion of low-MW HA enables deeper epide…

A short-ingredient hydration serum using a dual-molecular-weight HA system (65% low-MW : 35% high-MW as disclosed by brand). The higher proportion of low-MW HA enables deeper epidermal penetration, though low-MW HA in isolation can trigger inflammatory signalling - the ratio balance here is designed to mitigate this. Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Extract at position 5 is the key aesthetic signature ingredient but also the primary safety concern: Rose extract contains EU-listed fragrance allergens (geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, linalool) at concentrations that are meaningful given its early position in the INCI. Gluconolactone + Calcium Gluconate provides a gentle PHA exfoliation layer compatible with sensitive skin. Sodium Benzoate preservative function requires pH below 4.2 - the Gluconolactone system may provide this acidification.
There are no chemical penetration enhancers, no parabens, no formaldehyde releasers, no MIT, and no synthetic Parfum in this formula. Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Extract appears at position 5 in the INCI, indicating a meaningful concentration. It provides anti-inflammatory polyphenols but also contains geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, and linalool - all designated fragrance allergens under EU Regulation 2023/1545. For leave-on products, individual disclosure is required above 0.01% from 2026. These allergens are not communicated to consumers on the product page. Benzyl Alcohol at position 12 acts as both a preservative and a fragrance allergen in this leave-on serum - its dual role is not disclosed. Gluconolactone (PHA) is the mildest exfoliating acid available and is well-tolerated even by sensitive and rosacea-prone skin. Sodium Benzoate works as a preservative only below pH 4.2; the Gluconolactone system acidifies the formula, which makes this a logical and functional preservative pairing.
Plum discloses the molecular weight ratio of the Hyaluronic Acid as 65% low-MW to 35% high-MW - this is genuinely transparent, and most HA products do not specify this. Low-molecular-weight HA penetrates deeper into the epidermis, while high-molecular-weight HA forms a film at the surface to lock in moisture. The 35% high-MW component also helps moderate the transient pro-inflammatory signalling that can occur with pure low-MW HA via CD44 receptor activation. Gluconolactone (PHA) adds gentle exfoliation without the sensitisation potential of glycolic or lactic acids, making it suitable for reactive and post-treatment skin. Calcium Gluconate works synergistically with Gluconolactone - this is the NeoStrata PHA system for mild keratin softening and barrier support. Rosa Damascena at position 5 contributes anti-inflammatory polyphenols alongside its allergen content. This is a short formula with 18 ingredients, which reduces processing complexity and lowers the environmental footprint. Beyond HA and PHA, there are no additional functional actives.
Plum discloses both the 2% HA concentration and the 65:35 LMW:HMW molecular weight ratio - this level of specificity is unusual and commendable. The full INCI list is published on the product page. No clinical study data has been published for this formula. The fragrance allergen content of Rosa Damascena (geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, linalool) is not communicated to consumers, despite the extract appearing early in the INCI at what appears to be a meaningful concentration. The 'Bulgarian Rose' provenance adds authenticity to the marketing, but the sustainability practices behind Bulgarian rose cultivation - which is water and labour intensive - are not confirmed or addressed.
Plum is certified 100% vegan and PETA cruelty-free. The brand does not sell into markets requiring mandatory animal testing. Bulgarian Rosa Damascena cultivation is water and labour-intensive, and rose oil extraction is among the most resource-intensive botanical processes used in cosmetics. True-origin certification for the Bulgarian Rose used here has not been confirmed. The formula is very short at 18 ingredients, which reduces processing complexity and lowers the environmental footprint. No synthetic fragrance is added beyond what naturally occurs within the Rose Extract itself. No palm derivatives have been identified in this formula.
Hyaluronic acid serums are highly relevant for India's variable climate - the dual-MW system ensures hydration at both surface and epidermal levels, important during dry Delhi winters and air-conditioned environments. The Gluconolactone PHA addition is thoughtful for Indian skin types that may not tolerate glycolic or lactic acid - PHA is the gentlest AHA option. The rose fragrance allergen concern is particularly relevant as rose fragrance sensitisation can worsen existing skin conditions including the perioral dermatitis and facial eczema seen in Indian urban populations. Individuals with any history of fragrance sensitivity should patch-test before using.
| Ingredient | Note | Status |
|---|---|---|
Aqua | Solvent base | Safe |
Pentylene Glycol | Humectant and mild preservative booster | Safe |
Propanediol | Plant-derived humectant | Safe |
Glycerin | Humectant; barrier-supportive | Safe |
Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Extract | Position 5 indicates meaningful concentration. Anti-inflammatory polyphenols but contains geraniol, citronellol, farnesol, linalool (EU fragrance allergens) at concerning levels for a leave-on | Caution |
Sucrose | Humectant and texture modifier | Safe |
Sorbitol | Polyol humectant; skin-conditioning | Safe |
Sodium Hyaluronate* | Dual-MW HA blend (65% LMW : 35% HMW per brand). LMW penetrates deeper; HMW forms surface film. *Brand footnote confirms ratio | Safe |
Sodium Benzoate | Preservative; effective only below pH 4.2 (pKa 4.2). Gluconolactone system likely acidifies formula to appropriate range | Note |
Gluconolactone | PHA (polyhydroxy acid); gentle enzymatic exfoliation. Suitable for sensitive, reactive, and rosacea-prone skin | Safe |
Calcium Gluconate | NeoStrata PHA system partner; synergistic with Gluconolactone for mild keratin softening | Safe |
Benzyl Alcohol | Preservative and EU-listed fragrance allergen | Caution |
Hydroxyacetophenone | Antioxidant preservative booster | Safe |
Caprylyl Glycol | Mild preservative booster and humectant | Safe |
Cyclodextrin | Molecular encapsulant for active stabilisation and delivery | Safe |
Sodium Gluconate | Chelating agent supporting preservative efficacy | Safe |
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate | Polymer rheology modifier for gel texture | Safe |
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer | Polymer thickener/stabiliser for aqueous phase | Safe |
Ingredients listed in INCI order as declared on product packaging. Position reflects approximate concentration (high → low).
Clean Sheet Scores are generated by analysing every ingredient against India, EU, US & Korean safety regulations. No brand sponsorship. No affiliate relationships. Independent science-backed analysis only.
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- What toxicology says
- What the formula concentration shows
- What the product format changes
- What the intended user needs
- What testing evidence proves
- What the brand is claiming